MOTHERBOARD TROUBLESHOOTING
A.)GENERAL TESTING TIPS.
Before you begin, download a few of our Diagnostic Software Tools to pinpoint possible problem areas in your PC. Ideally, troubleshooting is best accomplished with duplicate parts from a used computer enabling "test" swapping of peripheral devices/cards/chips/cables. In general, it is best to troubleshoot on systems that have been leaned-out. Remove unnecessary peripherals (soundcard, modem, harddisk, etc.) to check the unworking device in as much isolation as possible. Also, when swapping devices, don't forget the power supply. Power incompetency (watts and volts) can cause intermittent problems at all levels, but especially with UARTS and HD's.
Inspect the motherboard for loose components. A loose or missing CPU, BIOS chip, Crystal Oscillator, or Chipset chip will cause the motherboard not to function. Also check for loose or missing jumper caps, missing or loose memory chips (cache and SIMM's or DIMM's). To possibly save you hours of frustration i'll mention this here, check the BIOS Setup settings. 60% of the time this is the cause of many system failures. A quick fix is to restore the BIOS Defaults. Next, eliminate the possibility of interference by a bad or improperly set up I/O card by removing all cards except the video adapter. The system should at least power up and wait for a drive time-out. Insert the cards back into the system one at a time until the problem happens again. When the system does nothing, the problem will be with the last expansion card that was put in.
Did you recently 'flash' your computers BIOS, and needed to change a jumper to do so? Perhaps you left the jumper in the 'flash' position which could cause the CMOS to be erased.
If you require the CMOS Reset and don't have the proper jumper settings try these methods: Our Help Desk receives so many requests on Clearing BIOS/CMOS Passwords that we've put together a standard text outlining the various solutions.
C.)NO POWER.
Switching power supplies (the most common used PC's), cannot be adequately field-tested with V/OHM meters. Remember: for most switching power supplies to work, a FLOPPY and at least 1 meg of memory must be present on the motherboard. If the necessary components are present on the motherboard and there is no power:
1) check the power cable to the wall and that the wall socket is working. (You'd be surprised!)
2) swap power supply with one that is known to work.
3) if the system still doesn't work, check for fuses on the motherboard. If there are none, you must replace the motherboard.
2) swap power supply with one that is known to work.
3) if the system still doesn't work, check for fuses on the motherboard. If there are none, you must replace the motherboard.
D.)PERIPHERAL WON'T WORK.
Peripherals are any devices that are connected to the motherboard, including I/O boards, RS232/UART devices (including mice and modems), floppies and fixed-disks, video cards, etc. On modern boards, many peripherals are integrated into the motherboard, meaning, if one peripheral fails, effectually the motherboard has to be replaced.* On older boards, peripherals were added via daughter boards.
*some MB CMOS's allow for disabling on-board devices, which may be an option for not replacing the motherboard -- though, in practicality, some peripheral boards can cost as much, if not more, than the motherboard. Also, failure of on-board devices may signal a cascading failure to other components.
1. New peripheral?
1. New peripheral?
a) Check the MB BIOS documentation/setup to ensure that the BIOS supports the device and that the MB is correctly configured for the device.
(Note>> when in doubt, reset CMOS to DEFAULT VALUES. These are ) (optimized for the most generalized settings that avoid some of) (the conflicts that result from improper 'tweaking'. )
b) Check cable attachments & orientation (don't just look, reattach!)
c) If that doesn't work, double-check jumper/PnP (including software and/or MB BIOS set) settings on the device.
d) If that doesn't work, try another peripheral of same brand & model that is known to work.
e) If the swap peripheral works, the original peripheral is most likely the problem. (You can verify this by testing the non-working peripheral on a test MB of the same make & bios.)
f) If the swap periphal doesn't on the MB, verify the functionality of the first peripheral on a test machine. If the first peripheral works on another machine AND IF the set-up of the motherboard BIOS is verified AND IF all potentially conflicting peripherals have been removed OR verified to not be in conflict, the motherboard is suspect. (However, see #D below.)
g) At this point, recheck MB or BIOS documentation to see if there are known bugs with the peripheral AND to verify any MB or peripheral jumper settings that are necessary for the particular peripheral to work. Also, try a different peripheral of the same kind but a different make to see if it works. If it does not, swap the motherboard. (However, see #D below.)
(Note>> when in doubt, reset CMOS to DEFAULT VALUES. These are ) (optimized for the most generalized settings that avoid some of) (the conflicts that result from improper 'tweaking'. )
b) Check cable attachments & orientation (don't just look, reattach!)
c) If that doesn't work, double-check jumper/PnP (including software and/or MB BIOS set) settings on the device.
d) If that doesn't work, try another peripheral of same brand & model that is known to work.
e) If the swap peripheral works, the original peripheral is most likely the problem. (You can verify this by testing the non-working peripheral on a test MB of the same make & bios.)
f) If the swap periphal doesn't on the MB, verify the functionality of the first peripheral on a test machine. If the first peripheral works on another machine AND IF the set-up of the motherboard BIOS is verified AND IF all potentially conflicting peripherals have been removed OR verified to not be in conflict, the motherboard is suspect. (However, see #D below.)
g) At this point, recheck MB or BIOS documentation to see if there are known bugs with the peripheral AND to verify any MB or peripheral jumper settings that are necessary for the particular peripheral to work. Also, try a different peripheral of the same kind but a different make to see if it works. If it does not, swap the motherboard. (However, see #D below.)
2. Peripheral that worked before?
a) If the hood has been opened (or even if it has not), check the orientation and/or seating of the cables. Cables sometimes 'shake' loose or are accidentally pulled out by end-users, who then misalign or do not reattach them.
b) If that doesn't work, try the peripheral in another machine of the same make & bios that is known to work. If the peripheral still doesn't work, the peripheral is most likely the problem. (This can be verified by swapping-in a working peripheral of the same make and model AND that is configured the same as the one that is not working. If it works, then the first peripheral is the problem.)
c) If the peripheral works on another machine, double-check other peripherals and/or potential conflicts on the MB, including the power supply. If none can be found, suspect the MB.
d) At this point, recheck MB or BIOS documentation to see if there are known bugs with the peripheral AND to verify any jumper settings that might be necessary for the particular peripheral. Also, try another peripheral of the same kind but a different make to see if it works. If not, swap the motherboard!
b) If that doesn't work, try the peripheral in another machine of the same make & bios that is known to work. If the peripheral still doesn't work, the peripheral is most likely the problem. (This can be verified by swapping-in a working peripheral of the same make and model AND that is configured the same as the one that is not working. If it works, then the first peripheral is the problem.)
c) If the peripheral works on another machine, double-check other peripherals and/or potential conflicts on the MB, including the power supply. If none can be found, suspect the MB.
d) At this point, recheck MB or BIOS documentation to see if there are known bugs with the peripheral AND to verify any jumper settings that might be necessary for the particular peripheral. Also, try another peripheral of the same kind but a different make to see if it works. If not, swap the motherboard!
E.)OTHER INDICATIONS OF A PROBLEM MOTHERBOARD.
1. CLOCK that won't keep correct time. >>Be sure to check/change the battery.
2. CMOS that won't hold configuration information. >>Again, check/change the battery.
Note about batteries and CMOS: in theory, CMOS should retain configuration information even if the system battery is removed or dies. In practice, some systems rely on the battery to hold this information. On these systems, a machine that is not powered-up for a week or two may report improper BIOS configuration. To check this kind of system, change the battery, power-up and run the system for several hours. If the CMOS is working, the information should be retained with the system off for more than 24 hours.
F.)BAD MOTHERBOARD OR OBSOLETE BIOS?
1. If the motherboard cannot configure to a particular peripheral, don't automatically assume a bad motherboard, even if the peripheral checks out on another machine -- especially if the other machine has a different BIOS revision. Check with the board manufacturer to see if a BIOS upgrade is available. Many BIOS upgrades can be made right on the MB with a FLASH RAM program provided by the board maker. See our BIOS page for more information
Half of all computer problems are related to cabling and connections. Ensure all cables are connected and connected firmly. Ribbon cables and power cables can often go loose. Ensure microprocessor, memory modules, and adapters such as video card are inserted correctly and didn't "pop-up" due to vibration.
System has no power at all. Power light does not illuminate, fan inside the power supply does not turn on, and indicator light on keyboard does not turn on.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Power cable is unplugged. | Visually inspect power cable. | Make sure power cable is securely plugged in. |
| Defective power cable. | Visual inspection, try another cable. | Replace cable. |
| Power supply failure. | Power cable and wall socket are OK, but system is still dead. | Contact technical support |
| Faulty wall outlet;circuit breaker or fuse blown. | Plug device into socket know to work and test. | Use different socket, repair outlet, reset circuit breaker or replace fuse. |
System inoperative. Keyboard lights are on, power indicator lights are lit, and hard drive is spinning.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Expansion card is partially dislodged from expansion slot on the motherboard. | Turn off computer. Take cover off system unit. Check all expansion cards to ensure they are securely seated in slots. | Using even pressure on both ends of the expansion card, press down firmly on expansion card. |
| Defective floppy disk drive or tape drive. | Turn system off. Disconnect the cables from one of the floppy drives. Turn on the system, check to see if the keyboard operates normally. Repeat until you have located defective unit. | Contact Technical Support. |
| Defective expansion card. | Turn computer off. Remove an expansion card. | Make sure expansion card is secure in expansion socket. |
System does not boot from hard disk drive, can be booted from floppy disk drive.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Connector between hard drive and system board unplugged. | When attempting to run the FDISK utility described in the HARD DISK section of this manual you get a message, INVALID DRIVE SPECIFICATION. | Check cable running form disk to disk controller on the board. Make sure both ends are securely plugged in; check the drive type in the Standard CMOS Setup (in your motherboard manual). |
| Damaged Hard Disk or Disk Controller. | Format hard disk; if unable to do so, the hard disk may be defective. | Contact Technical Support. |
| Hard Disk directory or FAT is scrambled. | Run the FDISK program, format the hard drive(See HARD DRIVE section of manual). Copy your backup data back onto hard drive. | Backing up the hard drive is extremely important. All Hard Disks are capable of breaking down at any time. |
System only boots from Floppy Disk. Hard Disk can be read and applications can be used, but booting from Hard Disk is impossible.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Hard Disk boot program has been destroyed. | A number of causes could be behind this. | Back up data and applications files. Reformat the Hard Drive as described in the Hard Drive section of this manual. Re-install applications and data using backup disks. |
Error message reading "SECTOR NOT FOUND" or other error messages indication certain data is not allowed to be retrieved.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| A number of causes could be behind this. | Use a file by file backup instead of an image backup to backup the Hard Disk. | Back up any salvageable data. Then do a low level format, partition, and high level format of the hard drive( see Hard Disk section of your manual for instructions). Re-install all saved data when completed. |
Disk formatted on IBM PS/2 will not operate with this system.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| The IBM PS/2 uses a different format than other computers. | IBM PS/2 disk format will not work in an AT type computer. | Format disk in the AT type computer insert disk into the IBM PS/2 and copy the files you wish. |
After install an expansion card (network card, tape drive card, etc.) the system no longer works properly.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| No power to monitor. | All or part of the system may be inoperable. The new card may work but a mouse or COM port may not work. | Change the interrupt or RAM address on the new expansion card. See the documentation that came with the new card in order to change pin settings. many expansion devices come with proprietary software that will assist you in doing this. |
Screen message says "Invalid Configuration" or "CMOS Failure."
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Incorrect information entered into the configuration (setup) program. | Check the configuration program. Replace any incorrect information. | Review system's equipment. Make sure correct information is in setup. |
Screen is blank.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| No power to monitor. | | Check the power connectors to monitor and to system. Make sure monitor is connected to display card, change I/O address on network card if applicable. |
| Monitor not connected to computer. | | See instructions above. |
| Network card I/O address conflict. | | See instructions above. |
System does not boot from hard disk drive, can be booted from floppy disk drive.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Connector between hard drive and system board unplugged. | When attempting to run the FDISK utility described in the HARD DISK section of this manual you get a message, INVALID DRIVE SPECIFICATION. | Check cable running form disk to disk controller on the board. Make sure both ends are securely plugged in; check the drive type in the Standard CMOS Setup (in your |
Problem
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Memory problem, display card jumpers not set correctly. | | Reboot computer. Re-install memory, make sure that all memory modules are installed in correct sockets. Check jumper and switch settings on display card. See display card section for information of settings. |
| Computer virus. | | Use anti-virus programs (McAfee/PC-cillin, E-port, etc) to detect and clean viruses. |
Screen goes blank periodically.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Screen saver is enabled. | | Disable screen saver. |
Keyboard failure.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Keyboard is disconnected. | | Reconnect keyboard. Check keys again, if no improvement, replace keyboard. |
No color on screen.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Faulty Monitor. | | If possible, connect monitor to another system. If no color, replace monitor. |
| CMOS incorrectly set up. | | Call technical support. |
Floppy drive lights stays on.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Floppy Drive cable not connected correctly. | | Reconnect floppy cable making sure PIN1 on the Floppy Drive corresponds with PIN1 on floppy cable connector. |
Error reading drive A:
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Bad floppy disk. | | Try new floppy disk. |
| Floppy disk not formatted | | Format floppy disk(type ENTER) |
C: drive failure.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| SETUP program does not have correct information. | | Boot from drive A: using DOS system disk. Input correct information to SETUP program. |
| Hard Drive cable not connected properly. | | Check Hard drive cable. |
Cannot boot system after installing second hard drive.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Master/Slave jumpers not set correctly. | | Set master /Slave jumpers correctly. |
| Hard Drives not compatible / different manufacturers. | | Run SETUP program and select correct drive types. Call drive manufactures for compatibility with other drives. |
Missing operating system on hard drive.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| CMOS setup has been changed. | | Run setup and select correct drive type. |
Certain keys do not function.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Keys jammed or defective. | | Replace keyboard. |
Keyboard is locked, no keys function.
| PROBABLE CAUSE | DIAGNOSIS | SOLUTION |
| Keyboard is locked. | | Unlock keyboard |
This table contains the driving clock speeds and the clock multipliers for AMD/Cyrix/Intel processors
| brand | CPU name- rated speed | internal speed [Mhz] | multiplier | clock (mem bus) [Mhz] | PCI bus [Mhz] | Notes/P-rating | |
| Intel/AMD/Cyrix 486 Class | 486DX2-66 | 66 | 2x | 33 | 33 | | |
| | 486DX2-80 | 80 | 2x | 40 | 40? | ? | |
| | Cx486DX4-75 | 75 | 3x | 25 | ? | | |
| | 486DX4-100 | 100 | 3x | 33 | 33 | | |
| AMD Enhanced 486 Class | 486DX4-120 | 120 | 3x | 40 | 40? | ? | |
| | 486DX4-120 | 100 | 2x | 50 | ? | 2x mode (non-standard) | |
| Intel Pentium® | Pentium®-75 | 75 | 1.5x | 50 | 25 | | |
| | Pentium®-90 | 90 | 1.5x | 60 | 30 | | |
| | Pentium®-100 | 100 | 1.5x | 66 | 33 | | |
| | Pentium®-120 | 120 | 2x | 60 | 30 | | |
| | Pentium®-133 | 133 | 2x | 66 | 33 | | |
| | Pentium®-150 | 150 | 2.5x | 60 | 30 | | |
| | Pentium®-166 | 166 | 2.5x | 66 | 33 | | |
| | Pentium®-200 | 200 | 3x | 66 | 33 | | |
| AMD 5x86 | Amd5x86-133 | 133 | 4x | 33 | 33 | P75+ | |
| | Amd5x86-133 | 160** | 4x | 40 | 40*? | P100+(non-standard) | |
| | Amd5x86-133 | 150** | 3x | 50 | 50*? | n/a (non-standard) | |
| Cyrix 5x86 | Cx5x86-100 | 100 | 2x/3x | 50/33 | | P75+ | |
| | Cx5x86-120 | 120 | 3x | 40 | | P90+ | |
| Cyrix 6x86 | Cx6x86-100 | 100 | 2x | 50 | 25* | P120+ | |
| | Cx6x86-110 | 110 | 2x | 55 | ? | P133+ | |
| | Cx6x86-120 | 120 | 2x | 60 | 30* | P150+ | |
| | Cx6x86-133 | 133 | 2x | 66 | 33* | P166+ | |
| | Cx6x86-150 | 150 | 2x | 75 | 40* | P200+ | |
| NexGen | Nx586-80? | I couldn't find any info on this processor | | ||||
| Notes | * are my speculations. ** are overclocked modes. (may damage the CPU, see Overclocking FAQ). Cyrix 486DX4, 5x86 and 6x86 have 2x/3x clock multiplier. Amd 5x86 has 3x/4x clock multiplier. PCI specs are for 33Mhz; dunno if or how PCI stands overclocking to 40 or 50 Mhz. Only Intel Pentium®s and Cyrix 6x86 have triple clocks (internal/memory/PCI bus). For the others the PCI clock is the same as the memory clock, if not forced to 33 Mhz. | | |||||
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| Wi-Fi Tutorial |
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| [Getting Connected] |
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Wi-Fi Preparation –
What You Need to Connect
Wireless Network Screen
Mobile workers must know how to set up their mobile gear to connect to Wi-Fi locations. Using Windows XP in this tutorial, we'll go through the steps for setting up a laptop to access a Wi-Fi network. Some Wi-Fi cards can be set to automatically detect and connect to Wi-Fi networks, though it is still important to know how to manually set up your Wi-Fi card to connect to a wireless network.
· Before you attempt to use any Wi-Fi network, find out what the SSID, Channel, Mode and WEP keys are. Some Wi-Fi locations do not require a WEP key. Many Wi-Fi providers have this information on their Web site or they'll give you the information when you purchase access.
· Ensure you have a firewall program installed and running. This will protect your data.
· Start up your laptop and look for the Wi-Fi network icon in the bottom right of the screen.
· Click on the Wi-Fi Connection icon on bottom right of screen and you should see a window that indicates connection, strength and duration. Click on the Properties tab.
Network Card Properties
Configuring a Wi-Fi Network
Photo Credit: ©Catherine Roseberry
This window shows the type of networking card installed. Click on the Wireless Networks tab.
Adding a Network Connection
Entering a new SSID network connection
Photo Credit: ©Catherine Roseberry
Once the Wireless Network Connection Properties window is open, you will have two options depending on how you set up your laptop.
If you do not see any networks listed in Preferred or Available networks, you will have to manually add the SSID. Click on Add. You will have to enter the SSID and WEP key (if required). Click OK and you should then see the network you just added in the Available Networks box.Using an Available Network
Configuring SSID for an available network.
If you see the correct SSID showing in the Available Networks, then you need to click on Configure in order to enter the WEP key if that is required.
Entering SSID and WEP Key
Entering SSID and WEP Key
Photo Credit: ©Catherine Roseberry
In this window, enter the SSID for the Wi-Fi network you want to access. Make sure you do not have CAPS lock or NUM lock while entering the information.
If a Network key is required, click on "Data Encryption and then enter the Network key you have been provided with. Again make sure you do not have CAPS or NUM lock on. Click OK when entered. If you have entered the key incorrectly, a message will pop up and you will need to re-enter the key.Making the Connection
Wi-Fi Connection
Photo Credit: ©Catherine Roseberry
Next go to Start - and where it says Connect To click on that and you should see choices similar to the graphic below. Click on Wireless Network Connection and it should work.
Potential Problems & Their Solutions: There are occasions when the connection doesn't work. In these cases check your firewall software and make sure it allows you to connect to the Wi-Fi network. To check this, disable your firewall software and check the connection again. If you can connect with the firewall program disabled, you will need to change your firewall settings. If your firewall program is not the problem, check the SSID and WEP key information that you entered. Both of these are case sensitive. If you had obtained SSID information from the Internet, check with someone in the establishment to see if the SSID has been changed.
4 steps to set up your home wireless network
You can use a wireless network to share Internet access, files, printers, and more. Or you can use it to surf the Web while you're sitting on your couch or in your yard. Plus, it's easier to install than you think.
1. Choose your wireless equipment
The first step is to make sure that you have the equipment you need. As you're looking for products in stores or on the Internet, you might notice that you can choose equipment that supports three different wireless networking technologies: 802.11a, 802.11b, and 802.11g. We recommend 802.11g, because it offers excellent performance and is compatible with almost everything.Shopping list
· Broadband Internet connection
· Wireless router
· A computer with built-in wireless networking support or a wireless network adapter
A wireless routerThe router converts the signals coming across your Internet connection into a wireless broadcast, sort of like a cordless phone base station. Be sure to get a wireless router, and not a wireless access point.
A wireless network adapter
Network adapters wirelessly connect your computer to your wireless router. If you have a newer computer you may already have wireless capabilities built in. If this is the case, then you will not need a wireless network adapter. If you need to purchase an adapter for a desktop computer, buy a USB wireless network adapter. If you have a laptop, buy a PC card-based network adapter. Make sure that you have one adapter for every computer on your network.
Note: To make setup easy, choose a network adapter made by the same vendor that made your wireless router. For example, if you find a good price on a Linksys router, choose a Linksys network adapter to go with it. To make shopping even easier, buy a bundle, such as those available from D-Link, Netgear, Linksys, Microsoft, and
2. Connect your wireless router
Since you'll be temporarily disconnected from the Internet, print these instructions before you go any further.First, locate your cable modem or DSL modem and unplug it to turn it off.
Next, connect your wireless router to your modem. Your modem should stay connected directly to the Internet. Later, after you've hooked everything up, your computer will wirelessly connect to your router, and the router will send communications through your modem to the Internet.
Note: The instructions below apply to a Linksys wireless router. The ports on your router may be labeled differently, and the images may look different on your router. Check the documentation that came with your equipment for additional assistance.
· If you currently have your computer connected directly to your modem: Unplug the network cable from the back of your computer, and plug it into the port labeled Internet, WAN, or WLAN on the back of your router.
· If you do not currently have a computer connected to the Internet: Plug one end of a network cable (included with your router) into your modem, and plug the other end of the network cable into the Internet, WAN, or WLAN port on your wireless router.
· If you currently have your computer connected to a router: Unplug the network cable connected to the Internet, WAN, or WLAN port from your current router, and plug this end of the cable into the Internet, WAN, or WLAN port on your wireless router. Then, unplug any other network cables, and plug them into the available ports on your wireless router. You no longer need your original router, because your new wireless router replaces it.
3. Configure your wireless router
Next, open Internet Explorer and type in the address to configure your router.
You might be prompted for a password. The address and password you use will vary depending on what type of router you have, so refer to the instructions included with your router.
As a quick reference, this table shows the default addresses, usernames, and passwords for some common router manufacturers.
| Router | Address | Username | Password |
| 3Com | http://192.168.1.1 | admin | admin |
| D-Link | http://192.168.0.1 | admin | |
| Linksys | http://192.168.1.1 | admin | admin |
| Microsoft Broadband | http://192.168.2.1 | admin | admin |
| Netgear | http://192.168.0.1 | admin | password |
1. Your wireless network name, known as the SSID. This name identifies your network. You should choose something unique that none of your neighbors will be using.
2. Wireless encryption (WEP) or Wi-Fi Protected Access (WPA), which help protect your wireless network. For most routers, you will provide a passphrase that your router uses to generate several keys. Make sure your passphrase is unique and long (you don't need to memorize it).
3. Your administrative password, which controls your wireless network. Just like any other password, it should not be a word that you can find in the dictionary, and it should be a combination of letters, numbers, and symbols. Be sure you can remember this password, because you'll need it if you ever have to change your router's settings.
The exact steps you follow to configure these settings will vary depending on the type of router you have. After each configuration setting, be sure to click Save Settings, Apply, or OK to save your changes. Now, you should disconnect the network cable from your computer.
